wrinkly
59 posts
Joined: 10/09/2004 08:51:29
Location: POTTERS BAR United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
inlet manifolds
depending on which inlet manifold you are using many have a built in spacer which means you leave out the plastic spacer, but you will need a HIF type carb abutment bracket to suit your carb which will make the linkage work correctly
Posted: Aug 30, 2005 12:55 PM
John
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
Fitting vacuum gauge
The simple solution, a carb spacer with the vacuum adapter provided. If you get tired of having the vacuum gauge, the adapter comes with a screw which effectively plugs the adapter. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34395
Or, if you've got a ½" thick alloy carb. spacer, you could order p/n 070.350 from Holden Vintage and Classics, drill your own hole in the side of the spacer, tap 2BA threads and wind the vacuum adapter in - I've done this and it's not bad at all. If you get tired of having the vacuum gauge, the adapter comes with a screw which effectively plugs the adapter. It requires a threaded hole (Use a 2BA tap) for fitting into the carb adapter or manifold to make a vacuum connection.
Cheers -
Posted: Jul 23, 2006 11:03 PM
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Help, K&N filter won't fit
is it a cylinder type rather than a cone type. the cylinder types arnt very suited for minis due to the clearance of the bulk head, they are ok with metro, midgets, mgbs ect. if ur carb is fitted with a spacer (many minis are as standard) u could remove this or fit a thin one to get it to clear (make sure throtal arm will clear manifold. if not try sending it back.
Posted: Apr 29, 2007 08:08 PM
Clubman GT
31 posts
Joined: 25/11/2011 00:26:03
Location: Mangilao Guam
1.25 Twin SU HS2
I tried putting them together and the stud on the manifold to hold the carbs in place were short. Now I am going to remove the stud from the midget manifold and transfer those. My questions do I use everything from the midget setup including the spacers? I am going to modify the midget heat shied to work on the mini.
Posted: Dec 14, 2011 10:32 PM
Steve
25 posts
Joined: 27/11/2005 10:35:52
Location: northwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
I have had exactly the same problem with an HIF44, even with the spacer removed the carb still fouled the bulk head. I have used an "ultimate engine steady" the type with the threaded bar to push the engine slightly forward but found that if I did it more than just enough to get a piece of paper in the gap it caused the fan on the alternator to foul on my grille mounted spot lights. It has been a matter of very slight adjustments to get it in the right place and every time the steady is removed for any reason I have to go through the same process. Oh the joys of mini ownership!
Posted: Apr 14, 2011 08:05 PM
Nelly
4 posts
Joined: 01/06/2005 19:35:01
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carb Too Close to Bulkhead
Hi there, Any one had this? Just fitted a stage one kit to my 1985 998cc, All went fine until I fitted the carb and found it too close to the bulkhead! ie: Cant fit standard air box back on and when choke is pulled out carb jet body moves down and touches bulkhead......... Inlet manifold is MSC and the only way I can get the carb back in the correct position to fit the filter box and stop fouling body is to leave out the Alluminium carb spacer/insulator block and fit shorter studs! Is this correct or have I done something wrong?
Posted: Jun 18, 2005 11:23 PM
Explaining a bit better!
First of all thanks for the replies but I am still none the wiser! The problem was not the air filter supplied (wich is an element anyway!) I couldnt fit the standard air box on!. I have measured from the head mating face of the original inlet/exhaust manifold to the bottom edge of the carb mating face and the distance is 13mm less than the same distance on the new MSC inlet manifold, add this to the 13mm alluminium spacer if fitted with the new manifold and that puts the carb 26mm closer to the bulkhead! Any Ideas?
Posted: Jun 20, 2005 10:31 PM
Al
2 posts
Joined: 24/06/2005 12:36:43
Location: Thornton Cleveleys United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I had a similar problem when i was fitting my stage 1 kit from mini sport. They sent me the wrong filter so i was going to fit the standard one until the new cone filter arrived. I found that even without any spacers the original box would not mat eup to the carb because the distance between the carb and manifold mount fo rthe air filter are a different distance apart and the filter is still way too close for comfort on the bulkhead. One thing that is strange is that for a Stage 1 kit you really should be fitting a cone filter, you will love the noise (i know i do) and as someone mentioned earlier as long as your steady brackets are correctly aligned and fitted they fit lovely. Look better too!!
Posted: Jul 14, 2005 08:44 AM
what carb?
main thing is location of float chamber, hif u cant see it. when u fit carb to manifold use a plastic spacer, should have one on your manifold. Best fit K&N cone filter with billet stubstack in if possible. rember whatever mods you do you will most likly need to change the carb needle and possibly the damper spring. if not it is most likly the mixture will end up too lean and could damage ur engine as well as loosing alot of power. if you car does have hs4 carb (side mounted float bowl) then it will have a non sprung needle this means u need to centre it when fitted. with performance airfilter and free flowing exaust system a good start would be E3 needle with a blue dashpot spring. then if e3 is too rich M1 needle, if e3 too lean no 7 needle. if you cant be bothered with that just take it to a roling road and let them tune it. also when u connect the manifold its a good idea to plug it into the heater pipes so when u turn on heater it will warm manifold up helping it run and idle in cold weather, alot of people dont but you will have to increase idle more in winter if not, and u wont loose any power when ur heater is off. gd idea to have heater on after starting so u can get choke off sooner, then turn it off once u dont need choke.
Posted: Feb 28, 2007 10:58 AM
mark clark
Joined: 19/10/2004 17:26:55
Location: Hassocks United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
HS4 clearance after fitting Stage 1 kit
I tried to fit my Stage 1 kit over the weekend and all was pretty straightforward until I came to refit the carb. It's a standard HS4 with a waxstat, which is fouling on the bulkhead.
As i understand it, the options are:-
1) Leave the alloy spacer off - but I've heard the throttle can jam on the manifold and that it will affect heat dissipation.
2) Fit a narrower spacer
3) Convert carb to non-waxstat.
All I want is a quick and simple solution to get my car back on the road asap - any suggestions?
Posted: Mar 22, 2011 10:03 AM
London to Nurberg 2008
90's std 1275 is only 50bhp but its the torque that makes it pull better than 998 40bhp std. i shud get around 65-70bhp after my stage one kit iv made up myself, got nice lcb manifold, classic rc40 exhaust, K&N air filter cone type, stub stack(short ram pipe) to go inside air filter, a modifyied mg metro intake manifold with extra spacers to aid power, and a hif 44 mg metro carb. hopefully all that will give a 15-20bhp increase in power. then by summer 2008 i hope to get a head modifyied with rimflow valves, have high lift rockers and a mild cam (266 kent) and possibly get it bored to 1362cc then shud have around 100bhp mark. a well modifyied 998 can produce around 80bhp thas about it for road use more with a race cam. if u super/turbo charge u can get alot more power but if u go overbourd on it ur egine will wear at a very fast rate. u can get 1275's to near 200bhp but gear box wont like it and bearings will wear like anything. one thing to get ur few more hp out of ur egine eventually would be to get an old 1100 engine and use this with its differnt pistons and strounger con rods prob add anouther 8bhp on a well tuned engine and alot more torque. will mean u can use the same stage 3 head, whereas if u upgrade to 1275 u will need new stage 3 head. would be a cheap way to add power when u next rebuild the engine, then u can overbore it to 1250cc with special pistons.
Posted: Dec 10, 2006 09:26 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
whole front panel
they are a pain to change as you have to drop the subframe a few inches to get them in which means undoing the track rod ends at the steering arms, undoing the intermediate exhaust hanger, the remote gearchange release mountsthe upper engine mount, speedo cable, fuel input line and both brake and clutch hydraulic lines at the bulkhead. the carb may have to come off as well to clear the bulkhead. Engine earth strap right inner wing, shock absorber top mounts and all the lower subframe mounts. You may need to remove the windscreen wiper motor as well to get to the left hand tower bolts. Personally I am surprised that the tower mount rubber gives this much looseness in the positioning but without the benefit of seeing them first hand the call is yours. I am going to differ from Tim on the choice of subframe mounts. Having fitted solid alloy front subframe mounts I can tell you that they much improve the handling. yes you do get more vibration but if you aren't doing lits of motorway work then most mini driver expect to live with a lot of noise. If you have a Mk3 bodyshell onwards then stick with the standard rubber rear subframe mounts as they stop the heelboard being turned into a one man jamaican steel band. On my Mk2 I have no rubber spacer - it is metal on metal as per the factory and this works well. you could try simply bolting your tower up tighter and changing the front subframe mounts. If that doesn't work then you know you have to drop the subbie.
Posted: Apr 22, 2013 09:51 AM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Iddle screw
First thing to check is that the throttle is actually closing properly - sounds like you might have got it stuck partially open. Also check that the carb, gaskets and spacers are fitted properly and there's no air leaks. Also check the manifold to head is fitted tightly if you replaced this.
Posted: Apr 10, 2014 08:02 AM
my first mini and first car
just a 1275 sprite 94, shud be quite a beast when iv finished modding engine giving out around 90-100bhp realistic power(compared with original 50). with ported mg metro head, LCB with RC40 exhaust, mg metro ported intake manifold with extra spacers, K&N cone filter with billet stub stack in, moddifyied HIF44 carb, prob md266 cam and 1.5:1 roller rockers and possibly a 123 ignition system. but i was in a crash in over xmas on ice or oil on bend was only doing 20 and it lost control hit a lamp post and rolled onto its side. it works fine and drives fine but il have to get a new shell eventually i think. il buy cheap car to drive for a year while i get my engine rebuild and put my modded parts on it/in it, then il buy an old auto no one wants and put my 1275 in it. then get some vented 4 pot 7.9" discs and some 2nd hand minilite wheels which il sand blast and paint white then lacure them. then shud have myself a lil beast to beast most moddern cars to 60. cheapest imoliliser is battry cut off switch, take key out of it when leave my car and u cant hotwire it without breaking into boot and shorting switch think most theaths would of given up by then. if ur sterio need code typed in if battery removed/or a clock then u can fit a fuse inline with switch that will keep it going while disconnected but it will blow if u try to start car without imobiliser key in. And im also restoring a mk1 1965 mini cooper with a friend that i found cheap. his car tho his spending the £'s on it. i help him tho shell is completly bare at mo on side on a matress
Posted: Feb 14, 2007 12:10 PM
MrJenkinsEsq
29 posts
Joined: 05/11/2004 13:06:45
Location: Manchester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
HIF44 carb clearance
I have a mk1 mini with 998 engine with cooper head, cam, maniflow exhaust, manifold and inlet. The trouble is that there is no clearance between the carb itself and the bulkhead. Has anyone else had similar problems? Is it possible to remove the plastic spacer between the carb and inlet, or would I have to I modify the bulkhead? I have seen other 998s with HIF44s. Also, where would the throttle return spring attatch to on a hif44? Finally, if i listen closely, there is an occasional quiet popping sound from the dashpot. Is this normal? This is our first mini build, so it is all a bit new!
Posted: Aug 29, 2005 09:00 PM
I doubt you'll get the carbs to fit with those enormous spacers - they'll most likely foul the bulkhead. Try and get some thinner ones. I would fit the heat shield if you can, even if it means bodging it a bit (it won't be visible when it's fitted).
The connections on the float chambers are unusual. On the one with two, one of them must be the inlet and the other the overflow - or are they connected? On the one with three, the extra one must be the feed to the other carb. On a normal mini cooper installation, there is a t-piece in the fuel line, and one pipe goes to each carb.
Posted: Dec 15, 2011 10:05 AM
Hello again. Are you familiar with the neoprene sheeting they use in warehouses as temporary firebreaks/draught excluders? I used some of that to make gaskets for the SU HS6 units on my Triumph. It is fire proof, solvent proof and helps deaden the vibration so that the fuel has less tendency to froth in the float chamber at high revs. I got mine down to 3/16" whereas the smallest stock item was 5/16". They've lasted 25 years so far :)
The angle of the float chamber in respect to the carb body is set by the shape of the casting or an adapter piece between the two components. You could check other SU sources for different angles or you could get a machine shop to make up a new adaptor plate with the new angle. It is important that the float chamber lid is horizontal or the float will jam in operation.
Posted: Dec 22, 2011 02:25 PM
tom
11 posts
Joined: 22/03/2006 11:39:45
carb to manifold stud????
hi. i've removed the standard carb and cast manifold from my mini.(even though the engine is out of a 1989 1275cc metro.) However, there are two threaded studs, which attach the carb to the manifold (via a spacer, I think.). These have no nuts on the end, therefore how do I seperate the two parts???????
cheers
Posted: Nov 08, 2006 07:07 PM
Phil
Joined: 01/06/2006 12:27:27
SU HIF Carb problem
We took the carb off to clean; the float chamber was off and dashpot etc. We did not disassemble the throttle spindle or cold start. Re-assembled and new gasket at the air filter and at the spacer. It all went together ok but we now have an issue that when trying to start the engine fuel pours out of what I think is the fule vent (mid top pipe on fuel inlet side) that had a pastic cover on it.
Any ideas why this and what we have done wrong? Have taken it off and check again (twice) but cannot spot anything vs the Hayes manual
Posted: Jun 10, 2006 06:41 PM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-Manifold-for-SU-HIF-38-HS4-MINI-Spares-centre_W0QQitemZ150094147277QQihZ005QQcategoryZ27376QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-sport-inlet-manifold-MG-metro-mini-A-series_W0QQitemZ170084952192QQihZ007QQcategoryZ27380QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-SPARES-WATER-HEATED-INLET-MANIFOLD_W0QQitemZ170085311915QQihZ007QQcategoryZ100916QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUSTIN-ROVER-MG-MINI-WATER-COOLED-INLET-MANIFOLD_W0QQitemZ320086679109QQihZ011QQcategoryZ100916QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
there are a few cant garrenty there all 1.1/2" ones tho. also if u have a plastic spacer fit it, as it helps keep carb cooler so intake charge is cooler (denser so more power)
Posted: Feb 27, 2007 11:12 AM